Saturday, 16 August 2014

Summery Strappy Sorbetto Hack

So this isn't so much a "How to" as a "What I did"... It's sort of "How to do what I did" if that makes sense. What I'm trying to say is that I know absolutely nothing about pattern drafting but this is what I did and it worked, so hopefully it will work for you too!

Now let's get cracking!

Materials needed:
-Sorbetto pattern (Or any other woven vest/top pattern eg. Wiksten tank, Tiny pocket tank or even the    Polly top- you could probably do a cool sweetheart neckline with the Polly!)
-Tracing paper (Or drafting paper/ Greaseproof/ Christmas wrapping paper)
-Fabric (I used about 1.5 Meters of 130cm width fabric)
-1/2" double-fold bias binding (Either make your own matching binding or buy some- or better yet use contrast binding!)

Step 1:
Choose your size and trace your pattern.
(Full disclosure: I used a size 8 at the bust but graded out to a size 18 at the hem so the dress would be swishy and have butt room. I wouldn't recommend being so dramatic when grading out because it seriously screwed up the grainline so i had to straighten  out my dress hem.)
Optional use of mugs as pattern weights

Draw a straight line across your pattern front, from the armhole to the Center front (CF). This line should be perpendicular to the straight-grain.
(The line will be the starting point for the new neckline)

Step 3:
Draw your neckline
I just free-handed my neckline based on a few tops I've seen around. You pretty much want two gently curving lines (One from the armhole, one from the CF) which meet at the point where your strap will start)

Step 4:
Extend the front hem down to dress length. If you have an existing Sorbetto try that on and measure down from the  hem to where you'd like the dress to hit, then add a hem allowance. This is how much you'll lengthen the pattern by.
(For reference I'm just over 5 foot 5 and I lengthened mine by 15")

Step 5: THE BACK
On your traced pattern draw a straight line across the pattern back, from the armhole to the Center back (CB) Just like you did on the front. (This line is the new back neckline so you don't have to do anything else to it)
Step 5.5: Rush out to buy more brown paper for tracing!

Step 6:
Lengthen the back piece by the same amount that you did the front.
(Sorry no picture but you get the idea)

Step 7:
Celebrate! The pattern adjustments are done, yay!

*A note on seam allowance: If like me you're suddenly freaking out that you haven't added seam allowances fear not! As you're going to finish the neckline with double-fold bias binding you don't need seam allowances, and the original top pattern will have had seam allowances included so you don't have to add
anything to the side seams.*

Step 8:
Cut out your pattern
I added a CB seam as I couldn't fit the pattern on the fabric in one go. If you're making self-fabric bias binding now is the time to do so. I didn't measure my bias binding but I cut it extra long so I had room to play around with strap length/placement.

Step 9:
Here's the order I used:
-Front darts
-Center back seam
-Side seams and pockets
-Bias binding across front neckline (See red line)

-Bias binding around back and up the front, extending up to make straps
(Sorry no picture, but imagine the arrows going all the way around to meet at the center back the the straps going over the shoulders and attatching on both sides at the back.)

-Position straps and attach to back

Now put on the dress and twirl! Yay, twirling!!

*Note: This dress has no shaping so without a belt it looks like an A-line/sack/loose shift dress*

Hopefully, this was a clear explanation of my Sorbetto hack. If anyone has any questions don't hesitate to ask and if anyone does make their own version then please share it, I'd love to see!

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